About the only thing they have in common with a L&H/Washburn is the body shape, so to say they are based on the L&H is somewhat misleading. IMHO a simpler headstock is not a problem but if you can duplicate the tone - that would be more impressive to me.Īgree entirely. I have played and seen a few "copies" that look like L&Hs but really are based on Gibson bracing and voicing, so what is the point of that. Last edited by ombe May-22-2013 at 11:49pm.įrankly, Peter I am always more impressed with luthiers who are able to copy the tone and playability of these instruments vs. Reproducing the sound should not be too hard since my smaller bodied long necked oval hole does sound surprisingly similar to the original L&H. Exact copies I think I will leave to Rigel and the folks who can afford to pay the premium for all that extra work. same shape as the original but no scroll). The style B headstock is a possibility, but the tuners are worm under and it is still quite a bit more work than a small snakehead (i.e. Still have not decided what I am going to do about the headstock. There is no point in making an instrument that costs a lot more than an original. Cost needs to be a consideration as well so I am thinking of passing on the scroll headstock and the leg pin. I think I have found someone who can reproduce the tailpiece cover, but the scroll headstock is a bigger problem because the tuners are different, and it is a heck of a lot of extra work. Quite a few decisions need to be made on how closely to copy the original. Unfortunately I can't just drop into a vintage music shop because these mandolins are virtually unkown here in Australia. I would also like to be able to offer an assymetrical mandolin with a 13" scale length. Reason for asking is I am starting work on a new model of mandolin to be based on my L&H. Is the bridge height higher on the later models? My bridge is only 14mm high, so would be a squeeze to fit an adjustable bridge. Are these original, or have the original one piece bridges been replaced. Next question is I have seen some pictures with adjustable bridges. Mine screws into the point, but I can't see any screw in pictures of the assymmetric models. Second question is how is the pickguard attached in the later assymmetric models. Impossible to tell even without varnish, but I would guess European since these instruments do not have a big dynamic range. Unlikely to be Sitka or Engelmann, so that leaves Red and European.
The back is obviously Rock Maple, but I have no idea what the top is. I have a symmetric model A made around 1918. Firstly, does anyone have any idea what species of Spruce they used in those days. I have a couple of questions about L&H mandolins.